I’ve always had a passion for traveling. I do miss the days though, pre-injury, when I could find a deal online and just pack a weekend bag and jet off, but even now that I’m a wheelchair user that desire hasn’t died.
Planning trips nowadays requires a ton more research, and oh did I mention there are 2 of us in chairs? My better half and love of my life, Rey Maiz, is also a ‘chair user, and since I’m the travel planner, I have to consider accessible transportation, hotel rooms and any attractions or venues we want to go to. So yes, a lot goes into every trip we take together and it’s up to me to get it right. That pressure became even more daunting when we starting talking about going overseas for the first time.
Last year, Rey and I decided we wanted to take our first international trip together, so after paring our list down to our top 3 choices of Australia, South Africa and Spain, we chose Spain. I have to confess I actually did very little planning this time prior to leaving, other than booking the flight and the hotel online; the only thing we agreed on in advance was to go with the flow and have a great time. Thankfully, once we arrived, Barcelona Special Traveler Agency found out about us and met us at our hotel to help create an itinerary of things to do while we were there. They were a great resource for us during our stay and answered all the questions we had which were primarily about transportation.
The Flight
Rey and I have traveled all over the United States, but neither of us had been on flight for more than 5 hours. Barcelona is 8 from Atlanta. Because both of us have a spinal cord injury (we are both T-level paras) going to the bathroom on the plane was the biggest issue. I think it would be for anyone with a disability on a flight like this. Yes, the airplane has an aisle chair onboard but when it’s just the two of us we can’t help each other make the transfer to the bathroom. I’m not even sure that aisle chair can fit in there. Therefore, we had to consider how long we will take between pre-boarding, the duration of the flight and the time it takes to clear the plane of all passengers and us being the last ones off and back into our own wheelchairs. What is an 8 hour flight to Barcelona for most people is actually 9 hours for us. What happens if you have to pee?
For me, I have a stoma, a catheter and drainage leg bag, so whenever I fly I either bring an empty water bottle with me or ask a flight attendant if I can have one of theirs after service. When my leg bag gets full I simply empty it into the bottle. (I nearly filled it up by the time we arrived to and from Barcelona.) Rey, on the other hand, uses a Coloplast SpeediCath to drain his bladder. To be discreet, we use a blanket to keep him covered when he has to cath.
So let’s talk about the elephant in the room… What happens when you have to poop? (This is probably everyone’s biggest fear right?) Well, you don’t. You prepare in advance. I make sure my bowels are empty the day before the flight and I’ll eat light and take an Imodium the day of. Rey will use an Enemeez Mini-Enema the night before and he’ll also take an Imodium the day we fly.
We began our journey in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, on a Delta flight to Atlanta where we had a 3 hour layover before boarding for Spain. We checked our chairs at the gate and took apart as much as possible (backrests, side guards, armrests, our Smart Drives) to put in the overhead bin. The more you can take, the less there is to damage. That was a huge worry of mine before we left. (On the way back home, Rey’s chair did get damaged with the handle broken.) We also boarded with one duffle full of medical supplies (which fly for free if checked) but we kept with us as carry-on. I took 8 urinary drainage leg bags, 8 night bags, chux, extra supplies for emergency, my catheter irrigation system, gloves, baby wipes and enemeez. Rey brought 2 boxes of his Speedicaths and gloves to go with all our medications.
My one tip: Contact the airline in advance and let them know you need wheelchair assistance, an aisle chair and what kind of assistance you will require. For me, it was a 2-person transfer (One person under my arms and another under my legs). Rey just needed assistance to get from the aisle chair to his seat and he transferred himself. Call both when you book your flight in advance and a couple days prior to your departure to make sure the notes are still in the airline’s system. And communicate nicely with the staff helping you. They may not understand that we deal with muscle spasms and that they may activate in the middle of the transfer. It’s all about education and awareness that will make for smoother flights in the future for all people with disabilities.
The Arrival
Two movies, one nap and 8 hours later, we arrived at Barcelona–El Prat Airport. Rey and I were taken off the plane in aisle chairs and shuttled into an ambu-lift. The ground crew didn’t give Rey a chance to assemble his chair as he was busy putting mine together so he had to stay in the airline clunker as we were whisked away to the Terminal. In the Terminal, we were met by a woman who had a vest on, clearly marked with the universal symbol for disability. She told us she was our guide and took us past the long lines at Customs and straight to another agent who helped us get our luggage. I saw signage everywhere in the airport with posts that had a button you could press if you needed additional special assistance. I thought that was fantastic!
Barcelona is 6 hours ahead of us and we arrived at 8:45 in the morning. We decided to keep busy our first day so we could get our bodies used to their time schedule as soon as possible. When we got to our hotel, I was relieved! We had a wheelchair accessible room that had a roll-in shower with a chair attached to the wall, grab bars, a roll-under sink, a raised toilet and lowered beds. This was going to work.
[Immediately before traveling to Barcelona, my Aunt Mimi who was coming with us had been diagnosed with Gout in both feet and a severe case of Psoriatic Arthritis. She had this trip to Europe planned for a year and all of a sudden would need to rent a scooter for the days that involved a lot of walking when her cane would not suffice. I went straight to Facebook and asked my friends in the group “Accessible Travel Club” if anyone knew where I could rent a scooter, literally the day before flying out to Barcelona. So many nice responses willing to help! Barcelona Special Traveler (BST) caught my attention as they private messaged me immediately and offered any help and guidance once we arrived in Barcelona. In that day prior to arriving, the mastermind behind BST Javier Torrescasana and his business partner Rosa Munoz Soteras, set us up with a scooter to arrive to our hotel, Wheelchair Accessible Van transportation to and from the airport by our guide/chauffer/friend Albert Fabregat and tips on what accessible activities we could do during our week-long visit. To our surprise, they went above and beyond and met us at our hotel when we arrived. We arranged a 1-day guided tour by accessible van that included trips to landmarks like the Gothic Quarter, lunch located on the top floor of the old Bull Fighting Ring at Placa Espanya, taking el Teleferico (Cable Car) to the Castle at MontJuic, and Parc Güell. We were so happy to meet Javier and Rosa in person and they were at our beck and call whenever we had any questions throughout our trip.]
Our Hotel
We stayed at Hotel Ilunion Auditori. When researching wheelchair friendly hotels in Barcelona, I came across 2 that consistently came highly recommended, ours and MICs San Jordi. I chose the Ilunion Auditori because of its central location to many of the city’s landmarks, metro and bus stations. The staff was friendly and helpful and our room was cozy with a view of a ‘full of life’ street of the city. There was a desk chair in the room so I asked one of the staff members if he could remove it. Instantly, through hand signs he let me know that he was both deaf and non-verbal, and although I know some of the basics of American Sign Language, I know it’s not interpreted the same around the world. We were still able to communicate our needs and he accommodated us. Once in the room, I made sure it had everything they said it did – lowered beds, an accessible bathroom, a shower chair and grab bars exactly where we needed them. Then I came across a note that read, “Welcome to the chain leader in accessibility and integration. Where more than 40% of our employees have some kind of disability and where tourism for all is possible. Welcome and thank you for staying with us and contribute to a positive social change.” That was it. I was in love with this hotel! You certainly don’t see that everywhere. After settling in, Rey and I scoped out the hotel a little further and checked out the pool area out on the terrace. They had a wheelchair lift to take us up the stairs to the pool deck where another lift was installed to help us in and out of the pool if we wanted to swim. We both wanted a day at the pool but there was simply too much exploring to do, there’d be no time for relaxing.
Getting Around
The next day, Rey and I ventured out on our own, map in hand like any good tourists in a foreign city would do. We really wanted to see how wheelchair accessible it was on our own two wheels. Keep in mind, we both have TiLite manual chairs with road tires and Max Mobility Smart Drives. I learned right away that the smart drive works better on flat surfaces and up flat slopes, but not so much on the cobblestone. There was also a lot of uneven pavement throughout the city. It was beautifully designed, but I felt every bump and crack with each new tile. Every time we crossed the street there seemed to be a new pattern, still beautiful but it made for tough going as we went. I can imagine it’d be way easier if you had a power chair or scooter.
Looking at an aerial map of Barcelona, it can be very intimidating, but the actual distances really aren’t that far. Barcelona is very much a pedestrian city that can be walked or wheeled if you’d like to go that route. When I first looked at a map, I was comparing each block to a typical New York City block, but I quickly realized that one of ours equals about three of theirs, so don’t let it scare you. Everything we wanted to see was closer than it appeared. With that said, after long days wheeling around, Rey and I still both got back to our hotel a lot sorer than we’d left it. To me, however, it was worth every strain.
For the most part, curb cuts are similar to what we have in the States, but if you aren’t careful you can find one that’s steep and uneven. I sure did. One night I face-planted on the way back to the hotel because I was looking up at the night’s atmosphere and not down where I should’ve been. A friend of ours, Jorge, who lives in Barcelona was with us and he a good Samaritan passing by helped get me back in my chair. No big deal. I think Jorge and Rey were more worried than I was as I just kept on wheeling down the street.
Another mode of transportation we used to tour the city was the Metro (Subway). It was the fastest way to get from our hotel to city center, the Placa Catalunya. For €9.95 which is equivalent to about 12 dollars, we purchased a multi-person travel card. This allowed us 10 journeys on all modes in the Integrated Fare System, including both the metro and public buses. Rey and I shared one card the first week and we used it anytime we didn’t feel like wheeling a long distance. It worked out great! At least 90% of the metro system is wheelchair adapted, with only 15 of their 156 stations not accessible. That’s better than the New York City system, hands down.
While I was there I interviewed Barcelona wheeler and local, Silvia Jane Argente, who has seen the progressive change and says that every year the metro is getting more and more accessible. The Metro Card Vendor even has a map specifically showing all accessible routes. I will say the elevators to get up and down to the stations can be pretty tight, some just barely fitting my manual chair, but we made it work. I’m not sure if a power scooter would fit though.
I think the easiest and most accessible transportation we took was the city bus. Bus stops in Barcelona are used for multiple routes so when we saw our bus approaching we flagged the driver down in advance so they knew to park closer to the curb. Each bus had a ramp that came down and we used our travel cards to ride. It was a great way to see some of the city while en route to our next destination.
Adaptive vans are also available for hire and we had an experience with two different types. The van that Barcelona Special Traveler provided to and from the airport was a low van, which made Rey’s transfer to the front seat almost even with his chair. The one we used the day we went on a guided tour, unfortunately for Rey, rode much higher, at least 2 feet above his chair cushion. And we must’ve gotten in and out of the van that day at least 6 times! I would roll up on the ramp in the back of the van, which was easy, but Rey, who is much stronger than I, would make the transfer to the front seat and then we would break down his chair and put it next to me in the back. It wasn’t easy for him but he stuck it out and rolled with the best of them. I understand we are in a very unique situation where it’s always two of us in chairs when we travel together, so I only recommend this option for one wheeler and an able-bodied companion.
Trip Tip #2: Use Google Maps
After only a couple of days, we learned our way around Barcelona quiet easily by following the google maps on our phones. We’d map out our routes by either metro, bus or on foot and it always gave us the fastest route to our destination. It was such a resourceful tool!
Basilica of the Sagrada Familia
You have not gone to Barcelona until you have visited La Sagrada Familia. Maybe Gaudi’s most famous works, the perfect transition between traditionalism and modernism. It may be more known for the fact that even though Gaudi died in 1928, La Sagrada Familia has yet to be entirely completed but is said to follow the vision of Gaudi and set to be finished by 2026, practically 140 years in the making since its inception and the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death. Gaudi was inspired by nature and believed that the vivid colors found in nature were a way to show a structure was alive. That holds true for the stained-glass windows against the tall concave walls inside the church. The natural light that shined thru the stained-glass windows made for a perfect rainbow of illumination once inside. After learning a little more about Gaudi’s naturalistic inspiration, it became clearer that the construction was actually meant to imitate a forest (with the columns being the trees) and the vaults with the stained-glass windows (filtering the light thru trees of the forest). Art imitated life as the spiraling staircases looked like the outer shell of a snail. I would give anything to go back in time and speak to the magnificent mind behind all these well-thought out, maybe overly-thought out structures and art pieces. The architect would never live to see this project complete as he was killed by a tram at the age of 73 but is buried in the crypt of La Sagrada Familia.
The wheelchair entrance to the Basilica is in the back of the building and the entrance to the inside of the building is extremely steep, a security guard offered to help me up because it would have been too difficult on my own. Once inside, everything is flat, ramps are very accessible and it’s easy to maneuver around. The wheelchair accessible bathroom is accessible except for the entrance. Rey’s chair just barely fit thru the narrow door and my chair would not fit at all & it’s just slightly wider. Admission is free for people with a disability and 1 companion.
Trip Tip: Book your tickets in advance, even if you get in free, entrance to the Sagrada Familia is by time slot and the slots get sold out quickly.
Park Güell
One of the most iconic tourist attractions in all of Barcelona is Park Güell, named after Eusebi Güell who acquired the land with a vison of creating an estate for well-off families. Güell entrusted his good friend Antoni Gaudi to bring his vision to life. Think a public park where the world of Willy Wonka meets the world of Dr. Seuss but in the most artistic way possible that embodies nature as the main inspiration behind Gaudi’s architectural works. The principal of the School of architecture where Gaudi completed his studies put it best, “I don’t know whether we have given the qualification to a madman or a genius.”
The park does have a map for people with reduced mobility to guide you away from the countless steps all over the park but the map also warns that “People with reduced mobility may have difficulty getting around Park Güell due to its architectural features.” Alessandro Campi, who uses a manual wheelchair because he has Multiple Sclerosis, travels to Barcelona with his wife Annette Porte from Milan, Italy and they say, “We would not recommend this for manual wheelchair users. It’s very steep and really not very accessible.” We were determined to take in the sights we saw on postcards and books all the way at the top and it was such a special view of all of Barcelona. We made it to the ever-recognizable undulating mosaic benches atop the Nature Square, where all kinds of celebrations were held in the early 20th century. Rey and I would have to agree with Alessandro and Annette, it was quite a trek and a dangerous one without the help of someone going up or controlling your speed going down the steep curved ramps. If you are willing to take the risk, with the help of a guide, I highly recommend pushing thru the hard parts of the park to get a view most only see on postcards and books. People with disabilities are entitled to free admission and their companion only pays €4,90 which is equivalent to less than $6 USD.
Barceloneta
Having no set plans that day, we decided to be spontaneous and go all the way to the beach from Arc de Triomf, but we could not cross across Ciutadella Park and took sidewalks all the way around the park and then a direct shot down to the beach with an occasional obligatory stop for tapas and wine. We used Google Maps to help guide us but it wasn’t that difficult to get our bearings, the sidewalks on the way there were pretty difficult. Once again, paying more attention to every missing tile, crack or cobblestone than my surroundings. Finally, after about a 30-minute stroll, we could smell the salty air and feel the ocean breeze. Once we reached the beach area, at last, the pavement was flat again and we could stroll with our Smart Drives on. I researched Barceloneta Beach and had to see if for myself so we headed South on the Boardwalk. Barceloneta Beach, specifically, is a wheelchair-friendly beach that hosts accessible beach days with beach wheelchairs and volunteers certain days throughout the summer. We had just missed the last accessible beach day but it was a breezy 65 degrees by the beach and maybe a little too cold to actually go in the water during this time of the year. They have a ramp that takes you all the way down to their version of “Muscle Beach”. So many people working out and concrete lounge chairs where people were taking in the view of the beach for miles as the sun set. We had dinner that night at a cute little restaurant right on the beach called Platja Ca la Nuri. After a couple bottles of wine, fine dining and great company, we decided it’d be best to take the bus back to our hotel. It took less than 5 minutes for us to find the nearest bust stop and another 15 minutes on the bus to get back to our nearest stop to our hotel.
(These are just three of my favorite things we experienced. Maybe we’ll put the full list on our site.)
Barcelona was absolutely beautiful, I love to see the preservation of old buildings, it’s like going back in time. I got so used to our neighborhood, I felt like a local myself after only a couple days. One of the best things we did was go to the cafes in the morning to have cappuccinos and bocadillos (baguette-style sandwiches with different fillings), and the boutique restaurants in the afternoon for a great glass of wine and tapas. I got to know the metro system and Rey and I were regulars at the local market. We were there for a grand total of 6 days which went by way too quickly. [It happened to be during a time of violent protests so there were a couple days where we were advised to stay away from voting areas where people were clashing with the police. We still went out.]
Now that I’m back home, I miss the food tremendously. The fresh bread from the bakery first thing in the morning and the fresh coffee. I’m a foodie so I enjoyed every little cafe or boutique restaurant we went to. Had everything from the very famous Patatas Bravas to Octopus to finest cuts of steak and don’t even get me started on the wine (which happens to be cheaper than a bottle of water) and so delicious. We enjoyed beers that were equivalent to about 50 cents, fresh fruit juices equivalent to about $1, gelato and churros covered in nutella. Ahhh… the food… I do miss all of it!
I have to be honest, I struggled when writing this story because I wanted to show Barcelona as one of the most accessible cities in the world and to encourage other wheeling travelers to visit this stunning city. But then again, I come from one of the most accessible countries in the world so to judge it by United States’ standards isn’t really fair. I also don’t want to sound like a spoiled American who complains about most attractions in Barcelona not being wheelchair accessible. When in Europe you’re just going to have to make do as best you can sometimes. There is no ADA over there. If you compare Barcelona to cities like Washington D.C., Las Vegas or Orlando, it doesn’t come close, but I did gain a lot of perspective on this trip. Accessibility in any part of the world is very much subjective to where you come from. I stopped as many people as I saw in wheelchairs, mostly tourists from other countries in Europe, and asked, “How do you find Barcelona wheelchair friendly compared to where you live?” I got the same response across the board, “Fantastic! We come here on holiday all the time. We can go everywhere easily, enjoy going out without worrying about transportation, hotels or attractions.” The very same things I spend hours upon hours doing research because it worries me that it won’t be accessible to my standards, my American Standards. I suddenly have a greater appreciation for the Americans with Disabilities Act. With that being said, I have to agree with my new wheel friends from all over the world, Barcelona is one of the most wheelchair accessible cities this world has to offer and when there is passion to travel, nothing should ever stop you.
About Barcelona Special Traveler
Special thanks to the team at Barcelona Special Traveler (BST) that helped us with planning most of the activities on our trip. I found them thru the ever-so-helpful Facebook group “Accessible Travel Club”. I highly recommend liking both of them on Facebook! Javier Torrescasana created “Barcelona’s 1st receptive travel agency to specialize in accessible tourism.” I got the chance to meet him and spend some time with him. The inspiration came from a need right at home. He has 2 sons with disabilities and living themselves in Barcelona looking for adaptive activities was a hard find. It soon turned into a passion to help others that fit the same target market, those with special needs that wanted to see the best Barcelona had to offer without any barriers. This isn’t just any travel agency, they live this adaptive life every day in one of the most accessible cities in Europe and from what Javier told me, his kids are unstoppable between adaptive skiing and surfing and so much more. There was one activity in particular I really wanted to do but due to the climate, we were not able to. They have an adaptive hot air balloon ride! This isn’t just any balloon ride, it has the capacity for 4 wheelers to transfer into chairs that actually lift so you can get an able-bodies’ view over Barcelona! How neat is that?! BST provides packages that include accommodations, experiences and services like wheelchair rentals/repairs and medical care. BST will create a tailor-made experience that will let you enjoy Barcelona with no worries.
